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Information About Us & our Company
General Information about our Company and our Background


Hello Welcome to The Shore Parts Store

We are a Meat Processing Parts & Equipment Dealer in the Vero Beach Fl. area.
The name of our business is Indian River Parts Supply Co.

Located at 946 28th Ave Vero Beach Fl 32960

Established in 1988.

Our background in this business is we started in Sept 1961 working for Swift & Co. so this September will mark our fiftY first year in the Foodservice Supply Business

We were in the Wholesale Meat Processing Business for over Thirty years Our biggest venture was a Federal Meat Processing Plant in Gainesville Fl. Named Holiday Foods Inc. Legend # 7409

We hope we can be of service to you with our experience in the Foodservice Business, and want to thank all of you for your great support over the last fifty years.

You will see on this website that we have a vast amount of Meat Processing Parts That will be listed below, also many Meat Grinders for the home use and others for the Grocery Store Production Models.

We have Grinder replacement parts along with Sausage Making Material and Sausage Seasonings
Along with all of the Meat & Food Processing Replacement Parts we offer We are also able to provide Tech. Support on all of
the items we sell I hope we may assist you


Ed & Gail Ann Baud & Family



A question we are asked an awful lot is I have an old Meat grinder or a grinder that the company is not around anymore, and I need a grinding knife or a knife and a plate.

Here is a way to find out what size grinder knife and grinder plate that fit’s your  Meat grinder.

Why are there so much approx. measurements with all of these knifes and plates
as you know all Manufactures like to have their products a little different than their competition. Its a Proprietary thing so they change a measurement 1/32" here and their and that is how we get approx. 


The #5 Grinder Knife measures tip to tip 1-3/16” the sq hole is aprox. 3/8” "

The # 8 Grinder Knife measures tip to tip 2-3/16” the sq hole is aprox 7/16”

The #10/12 Grinder Knife measures tip to tip 2-7/16” the sq hole is aprox ½”

The #22 Grinder Knife measures tip to tip 2-7/8” the sq hole is aprox 17/32”

The #32 Grinder Knife measures tip to tip 3-9/16” the sq hole is aprox 9/16”



The #5 Grinder Plate measures 2-1/16” Diameter.

The #8 Grinder Plate measures 2-7/16” Diameter

The #10/12 Grinder Plate measures 2-3/4” Diameter. 

The #22 Grinder Plate measures 3-1/4” Diameter

The #32 Grinder Plate measures 3-7/8” Diameter





     Take the slicer turn it over take off the carriage first now you either have either four bolts holding on the two slide bars or the slide bars have to come out the back of the slicer if that is the case you will have a retainer clip next to the back of the slicer fiting into the slide bar push them up with a screwdriver now lets get the slide bars

You are going to have to take the carriage tray holder off that is held on with a 3/4" bolt

now if you have the style with the four bolts disregard this part try moving your bars back and forth if you can put a little heat on the area by the back of the slicer where the slide bars slid out and find a way to get the bars out when you have the bars moving

You will need to free up the carriage slide assy a little heat helps if you have Blaster or any kind of penetrating oils use them liberally

>clean off the bars real,  real good take a brush to the bushing inside the carriage slide clean them up good now be careful that you do not lose the two slide bushing on the top of the carriage slide that runs along the top slide bar      






 The indexing knob being tight will take a little work

first of all you will need to dismantle the indexing assy

I would start by sliding the top rail away from the indexing plate and spring

now try and remove the 9/16" nut on top of the plate

after that is done slide the plate away from the indexing worm gear

now you will have to remove the stud (Number 29 ) that is in the gauge plate support rod

now the fun will begin if you have a small torch place it on the protruding

cylinders that the gauge plate support rods go up and down on and

get a rubber mallet and start to get the whole gauge plate (number 1 ) to come out after

you complete that feat start to clean up the rods and the cylinders that they go up and down in.

Do not use a file just cleaning solution and steel wool if possible.

make sure the rods will slide up and down freely before putting it all back together

if you have some white lithium grease that is a big help.

Now stop using veg oil or any kind of oil except mineral oil on the rods along with the slide rods  




 This takes some patience

But you need to unloosen the two 9/16" bolts holding the gauge plate now slide it close to the blade
keeping it around a 1/16" from the blade.

Now tighten up both of the bolts do not over tighten one with out the other being fairley tight you will see what happens when the bolts get up th the last turn.

if you can not get the gauge plate even with the blade you may have to use a shimm

under the carriage this may be were patience will help.

When you think you have it figured out it gets out of line more then before

Just do it in reverse of what you think will work

7 May 2015    How To Remove a Hobart Motor




First take off the back motor guard (two small screws)
Second the four small nuts 11/32" must be removed and the motor bracket #4 removed
their is the back bearing of the armature in the bracket it may be stuck just move it side to side until it loosens up

if you have a white "v" start switch disconnect it from the capacitor
you may have to take out the knife bearing unit

that in-tails removing the blade and removing the four screws underneath the blade pull the bearing unit out

While you have the knife bearing unit out see how much oil is in the cavity if their is oil touching the bottom of the gear

when you pull out the armature you may want to put some paper towels in the whole were the armature comes out because

This Oil is not friendly very thick and hard to clean up.

also on the armature if you have a hard time pulling it out put two screwdrivers on opposite sides of the back bearing and give the screwdriver a little nudge it should come right have the towels read now for the hard part.

you have four post sticking out they have four screws holding a retainer for the stator

you need to remove the screws and take the clips out

The stator may come out now just reach in to the back of the stator and see if it comes out that is if it was a perfect world

page two on the removal is to put some heat on the four columns that the stator rest on usually at 3,6,9,and 12 o'clock

and add a little liquid wrench type material. now again if that does not work let me know and I will try and go one more step

I hope this help 


We apologize for the inconvenience, but we are no longer shipping outside of the U.S. due to issues that are occurring when shipping internationally.

All Parts Shown are Provided by us at D & T Parts Supply as 

Quality Replacement Parts Unless Otherwise Specified.

We Are Not Dealers of and have no affiliation with

Hobart, Biro, Butcher Boy, Berkel, Globe, Bizerba or Hollymatic Companies.


Please do not hesitate to contact us if you need any information or assistance with a part.

Please leave make and model of machine along with a part description in the message so that we can help you better.

We are in store from 9am - 3pm EST Monday - Friday.

Emails or calls received after business hours will be returned on following business day.

Email: dtpartssupply@gmail.com

Please Check your Spam or Junk folders on your email before calling about missing sales confirmations or shipping tracking numbers.

Sales confirmations and tracking numbers are sent to customer emails and may go to junk or spam folders.

Phone: 772-774-8210

We ship same day on Monday through Friday for in stock orders placed by 3pm EST.